For six weeks, Alsace becomes a fairy-tale set. Medieval lanes are draped in garlands, the scent of mulled wine drifts between the wooden chalets, and the half-timbered windows flicker on one by one. It is arguably the most beautiful time of year to come as a couple — provided you know where to go and when.
Here is our itinerary — the one we have been recommending to our guests for years — to enjoy the magic without enduring the crowds, and to round off the evening in a private suite that keeps the enchantment going.
In this article
- → When to come: key dates for the 2025 season
- → Strasbourg: the cathedral and the Christkindelsmärik
- → Colmar: Little Venice under the lights
- → The villages: Kaysersberg, Riquewihr, Eguisheim
- → Our 2-day romantic itinerary
- → Where to stay to keep the magic going
- → Practical tips
When to come: dates for the 2025 season
The Alsace Christmas markets traditionally open on the last Friday of November and close on 30 December — except in Strasbourg, which closes on the evening of the 24th. For 2025, expect Friday 28 November to Tuesday 30 December, with a pause in Strasbourg on 25 December.
The secret to avoiding the crowds? Come midweek, ideally on a Tuesday or a Wednesday, in the first half of December. The weekend of 8 December and the one before Christmas alone account for more than half of all season visitors.
Our tip
If you can only come for one weekend, choose the very first (29-30 November) or the one of 13-14 December. The magic is intact, the chalets are fully stocked, and you can actually breathe.
Strasbourg: starting with the capital
The Christkindelsmärik in Strasbourg is the oldest in France — it dates back to 1570. Eleven themed markets radiate around the cathedral, but it is place de la Cathédrale and place Broglie that hold the magic. Look up: the pink-sandstone cathedral, lit at night, is worth the trip on its own.
Our advice for a truly intimate moment: climb to the cathedral platform at the end of the day (66 m, 332 steps, open until 5 pm in winter). You watch Strasbourg light up, the markets sparkle below, and the Vosges in the distance. As unforgettable as it is empty.
Place de la Cathédrale
The historic heart. Medieval setting, traditional market, mulled wine in true Alsatian style. Avoid 4-7 pm.
Place Broglie
The original 1570 Christkindelsmärik. More than 100 chalets. Best in the morning.
Place du Marché-aux-Poissons
The gourmet market: foie gras, honey, kougelhopf, gingerbread. Our favourite for gifts.
Carré d'Or, rue des Hallebardes
The most spectacular illuminations. A simple evening stroll is enough to leave you spellbound.
Colmar: Little Venice under the lights
An hour from Strasbourg, Colmar offers a more intimate experience. Six markets are tucked into the old town, but it is illuminated Little Venice that justifies the detour on its own. Walk along the Lauch after dark: the half-timbered houses are mirrored in the water, as if no one had touched the décor since the 16th century.
The market on place des Dominicains, in front of the gothic church, is our favourite: less busy than Strasbourg, more authentic, and the atmosphere at the foot of the Isenheim Altarpiece is unique.
The villages: where the magic concentrates
If you only had time for one village, it would be Kaysersberg. Voted the most beautiful market in France in 2024, it is laid out along a single street, around a ruined castle and a fortified bridge. The chalets are run by local artisans, not by resellers. You come here to buy, not to endure.
Riquewihr and Eguisheim complete the golden triangle of Christmas villages. Riquewihr unfurls its market between the ramparts; Eguisheim, in concentric circles around its church. Allow two hours per village, no more — the idea is to wander, not to tick boxes.
Kaysersberg
Our favourite. A single street, local artisans, fairy-tale atmosphere. Best in the late afternoon for the lights.
Riquewihr
The perfect medieval town. Markets under the ramparts, mulled wine from the winemakers themselves. Avoid Saturdays.
Eguisheim
The circular village. Smaller, more intimate. Magnificent in early evening.
Ribeauvillé
Medieval market (horns, troubadours, costumes), only the first two December weekends.
Our 2-day romantic itinerary
Here is how we suggest planning a weekend so you enjoy the best without exhausting yourselves:
Saturday morning — arrival and Strasbourg
Check in at your suite around midday (the markets close late, so you may as well drop your bags first). Train or car to Strasbourg, lunch in the Petite France, afternoon spent at the markets around the cathedral.
Saturday evening — Alsatian dinner and lights
Dinner in an authentic winstub (Au Pont du Corbeau, S'Burjerstub or Maison des Tanneurs). A digestive walk along the quai Saint-Nicolas, then back to the suite before 11 pm.
Sunday morning — Eguisheim or Kaysersberg
An unhurried breakfast in the suite, leaving around 10 am. Choose ONE village and take your time. Artisanal shopping, lunch on the spot (tarte flambée and pinot blanc).
Sunday afternoon — Colmar and back
On to Colmar for illuminated Little Venice at dusk (around 4.30 pm). Mulled wine on place des Dominicains, last bits of shopping, then back to the suite or home.
Where to stay to keep the magic going
Christmas-market scenery is magical — but fleeting. Walking back into a functional motorway hotel after wandering through a lit-up Kaysersberg is an immediate let-down. That is precisely why we designed our suites: so that coming back in the evening does not break the spell, it extends it.
Three suites particularly suited to the Christmas season:
Le Palais des Mille et Une Nuits
The oriental palace, gold and terracotta tones. Ideal after a freezing day: the private hot tub and warm atmosphere thaw you out instantly.
La Cocoon Terracotta
Our most enveloping suite. Warm materials, soft lighting. Perfect for a winter evening for two.
La Suite Cosy
More intimate, more tender. Our pick for a first weekend together in Alsace.
Practical tips
Three things make all the difference: your arrival time (aim for 2 pm midweek, never 5 pm at the weekend), parking (in Strasbourg, leave the car at a P+R Tram and ride in by tram — you save an hour of stress) and your shoes (Alsatian cobbles are merciless on thin heels, plan for flat, warm boots).
Our tip
Book your dinner table in November. The good Strasbourg winstubs are fully booked six weeks ahead during the markets.
Keep the magic going until morning
Our suites are 25 minutes from Strasbourg, 35 from Colmar and 30 from Kaysersberg. The Christmas scenery is never far — and you go home, not back to a hotel.
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